On our last day in Gunnison, we all went into town for lunch, I was the only loser with that. Then discussed our plans. Karen was afraid she was having charging issues with her coach so we did some diagnosing and it seemed that all was fine. They ended up extending a day so they could ride up to Cottonwood Pass, Taylor Reservoir, and Tin Cup, but Jan and I were anxious to get to our "secret" boondocking spot. We planned 4 nights there, one of our longer off grid stays, and hoped Clear Creek was fishable.
The next morning we left to go and our route would take us by Blue Mesa Reservoir, very interested to see what the water level was. Southwest Colorado is in an extreme drought. 2 years ago the lake was at the lowest point we had ever seen and the Animas in Durango was almost dry. When we went by Jan took a quick picture, it was quite low, but not as bad as we had seen it previously, we were told it was 56' below full, what's problematic is it is spring.
All that green grass should be underwater |
So up and over Slumgullion Pass just south of Lake City at 11,530', and interestingly the north side has the steepest grade of any continuously paved road in Colorado at 9%. As you know I hate heights and drop-offs, but for some unknown reason this pass doesn't bother me, even with the beetle killed trees cut down and therefore opening the views. Karen doesn't agree. Even in the rain we topped the pass and started down wondering how many vehicles would be in our secret spot? Turned out, eight or nine, but we had all day and night, eventually they all came back on their ATV's, loaded up and we moved into our position to spend the next 4 nights, with nobody else at all:-)
Just before the last lone fisherman had left |
After a delightful evening with rain showers moving in and out, dark and quiet, we arose to 35df. When it warmed up enough for us we put on our waders and gave it a go. It was a bit windy, but we each got one, and I lost a big fish. About 2, Karen and Tom rolled in. There were a few vehicles and trailers by then but they had no trouble getting into their spot.
In our beautiful spot |
They even brought a delicious dinner Karen had made! Another nice, quiet, and dark evening, no one else there. The next morning was cool as well, but Jan and I went back out fishing. This time I got an enormous fish on the line, I worked and worked to get him in the net. 3 times I got him within 3 feet of the net, only to have him pop off! I had to replace my fly it was so battered after the fight. I never knew there were fish of this size in this small creek. So after letting the pool calm down and tying on another fly, I gave it another shot. I could see a similar size fish feeding sporadically under some branches at the other side of the creek, and I did my best to lay the fly just up from him and get a nice perfect drift down to him. Jan came by just as I hooked into this monster, my reel sung as the line flew out, and I tried to hold him back some as he was trying to make a run to the rapids below, finally with Jan out front with her net we managed to get him. An enormous brown, one of the largest fish I've ever caught, every bit of 18-19" long and fat.
Incredible fish! |
So after that excitement we worked our way back with no further luck. The ever-changing sights with the clouds and rain moving in and out with the sun breaking through now and then made it glorious to just sit there and watch.
The same day Karen and Tom took a ride up the mountain where we have seen tons and tons of ATV's go, it's a road that goes to Crystal Lake and farther to Bristol Head, the glowing cliff face in the top picture of this group above. They came back and said it was quite rough and they turned around after 9 miles. We had tried to go up the road the year before, but there was so much water in the ford you have to make we didn't dare try it. So that day we watched the weather, walked, read, and enjoyed happy hour together.
Jan picked some wildflowers on her hike |
And got this pretty shot |
The next day Karen and Tom were leaving, but couldn't check into Antler's Lodge until 3pm, an RV park a whole 22 miles down the road where we all were staying for the week of the 4th. So we jumped in the truck to give it a go getting to at least Crystal Lake that according to the sign was 9.5 miles up the road. After fording the stream the road climbs up giving a nice view of where we are parked.
We are a little puzzled as we drive as the road is quite smooth and graded for 8.5 miles, too rough to continue, we wonder? Beautiful scenery though.
Just past the 8.5 mile point, there is a fork in the road, no sign to indicate which way to go, hmmm. Well the lake is supposed to only be another mile so let's go right, and wow, does the road get rough almost immediately, and narrow and winding, no problem we press on. It continues to deteriorate, we have gone another 1.75 miles, no lake, and run into a Razr. We ask if this is the way to the lake? No it was the left turn aways back, this is the way to Bristol Head, but it really gets rough up ahead. Wow, rougher than this huh? Time to turn around. Then they tell us the road to the lake is really rough. Okay, so we work our way back the 1.75 miles to the turn, goes about straight up, but it looks doable, after all it supposed to only be another mile. Up we go, and then down and into the woods, narrow, tight turns, rougher than a cob, we press on about 1.6 miles and when the "road" goes straight down to who knows where we decide to turn around. So no lake and no Bristol Head. As we get back, Karen and Tom are just leaving, we give a wave and off they go.
Another wonderful night, and fished again in the morning and Jan caught 2! So we chill for awhile, have lunch before we venture the whole 22 miles down the road to the Antler's.
Another of Jan's fish |
A little frosting on the mountains heading to Creede |
Now we have stayed at Antler's many times before, always had a decent time, they only have 24 sites and only 8 have 50 amp. We made our reservation for both Karen and Tom, and us in December for site 20 for K&T, and site 23 for us, both 50 amp and satellite friendly. And had confirmation emails, so when we came down the entrance into the park and could see our site 23 was occupied we wondered, because Karen earlier had said it seemed that 23 was a little slow in vacating their/our site. Karen had also let us know that when she got there the previous day site 15 which she had to go on for one night before moving over to 20, wasn't usable as there were tree branches intruding on the site so they ended up staying on yet another site because they weren't willing to do anything about it, before moving to 20. Jan and I go to check in and they tell us that we are going to be on site 15 for our week. What!?! I show her the confirmation email that shows site 23, she says she has only been there 3 days and will have to get the manager, yup. And the manager tells us that it's very complicated filling and reserving sites and sometimes things just have to be changed in a very condescending way. We tell her that Jan's sister said the trees were infringing on that site and it wasn't usable for a big rig. She says go look and see what you think. We intend to leave, but with the holiday, there are no sites available anywhere within 60 miles. We go look and then we tell them the tree will have to be trimmed or we will never be able to extend our slide. We ask why is there a tiny travel trailer that only can use 30 amp sitting on a 50 amp site? Just the way it goes is the answer. Finally the owner gets involved and doesn't understand the difference between 30 and 50 amp either. I will interject here for a moment, most smaller rigs, trailers 5ths, even small motorhomes are wired for 30 amp power, the larger units are wired for and need 50 amp power especially if it is hot and you need AC. There is a huge difference between 30 amp and 50 amp power; 30 amp provides exactly that 30 amps of power, but 50 amps actually provides 2 legs of 50 each or the equivalent of 100 amps. Finally, finally, finally, the offending branches get cut, but we can't get the satellite. Oh well, we have no other sites. Then the icing on the cake when Jan goes to plug us in she finds not a 50 amp breaker in the box but a 40 amp?!? So I ask the owner who is still there, she has no idea, when I ask her to change it, she says no way, thankfully her workamper is an electrician and goes and finds a 50 amp breaker and replaces it. Happy campers, no, not really. Oh well, we can certainly do without TV for a week, so we calm down and go over to Karen and Tom's rig for drinks and another delicious dinner she has prepared.
While on this subject, this campground uses the old fashioned method of booking like they did before computers. Pencil on paper, a large squared off grid, days on one side and sites on another, like I said they only have 24 sites, this is challenging sometimes like working out a jigsaw puzzle but not all that difficult. While we have been here, we have watched at least 10 people have to move sites while here in the park, back and forth they go for no apparent reason except incompetence in the office. The RV parks right now are enjoying full bookings and lots more people that would like to come than they can accommodate, therefore customer service is lacking, they know if they piss you off and you leave there are 5 more waiting to replace you. Obviously, this doesn't only apply to RV parks, it's any number of businesses. This is a nice park overall, that also has cabin rentals, and a restaurant, but we cannot recommend it.
The next day was Jan's birthday, so we went out to lunch in Creede with Karen and Tom to Kip's Grill. We had a delicious lunch only interrupted by the barking dogs at the table one over from us and the "service" dog eating off the table next to us.
Jan's green chili stew |
My hatch green chili tacos |
Then after a walk around town, we came back, chilled out, had drink with K&T, then I made Jan's birthday dinner, seared scallops over spinach, but she made the mashed potatoes, hers are the best!
While I was napping Jan decided to walk up the hill beside the campground across the Rio Grande.
And she got a shot of us in the campground as well.
Later with rain threatening, we took a ride up the hill over Creede for coffee.
Coffee with a few sprinkles |
Then the other direction |
The next morning, a beautiful day, up to fish again, Jan 2, Bill 1.
I mean, does it get any more beautiful than this? |
Then we met Karen and Tom for lunch at this little hole in the wall, Freemon's General Store for burgers. It's old fashioned, you order at the counter and then they bring it to you, cash only, flat top burgers, fries, onion rings, etc. Short menu, friendly place, really busy, and worth it. Fun and good!
Double cheeseburger with grilled onions |
Green chili cheeseburger |
The next day Karen and Tom left to hike around Big Meadows lake, and we packed a lunch and headed up towards Slumgullion Pass to check out another fishing spot near the Oleo Ranch. Found a spot for lunch, and got set up, but had to move it back inside the truck when the wind started to blow.
Not too shabby though |
A couple stopped by to chat and said they were from Kansas and have had a cabin in Lake City for years and years and were out looking for moose. On our way out to go check out another road up past Slumgullion Pass, what do we see?
And this guy |
So up and over Slumgullion to a forest road that looked interesting, but first we stopped at the top, never normally get a chance since we're typically in the motorhome.
That dirt road that you can see is our goal |
Nice views from 11,530'.
We drove in a little over 7 miles and ran out of time. It was beautiful.
Bright new life from the remains of a forest fire |
So then after one last dinner together with K&T, and of course one more cocktail hour we will have to say farewell as they head home and we continue on. We will miss the camaraderie on the road. Hopefully we'll be able to get together again before our planned rendezvous in Durango in October.
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